History in vertical

In the bowels of the Gruab Va Hardimbl Mine

A cart, motionless in the twilight of the tunnel. Over the centuries, dozens of men pushed it to move kilos and kilos of minerals from one end of the gallery to the other, driven on wooden rails.

They had to be strong to move carts like this. And short. Because the ceiling of these galleries in certain points does not reach a meter and a half in height. And resistant. With the humidity that eats your bones.

Here they called them Knoppen, canòpi.

To understand how they lived, you must venture into the Gruab Va Hardimbl mine, in the Mòcheni Valley. A 16th-century mine that helps you understand the extreme hardship of the work of miners in the Middle Ages. A story to be read in vertical.

The Erdemolo Mine in Mòcheni Valley | Gruab Va Hardimbl Mine

Between humidity and narrow tunnels

Only a small door separates the sun that warms the pastures from the cold and humid darkness of the mine. It is necessary to walk bent over, so as not to risk hitting the rock ceiling. For this reason, the canòpi wore long hats stuffed with straw. They also wore reinforcements on their trousers, to insulate them from the humidity during the long hours spent digging, bent over the rock.

All this took place under the faint light of a candle or, for the luckiest, oil lamps.

The twilight, the cold, the humidity. You still feel them when you visit the Gruab Va Hardimbl mine and venture into these narrow tunnels, held up by massive larch trunks that have resisted in the dark for centuries.

Steep stairs, walkways, galleries in the rock. The restoration work has preserved intact the soul of the medieval mine, allowing those who visit it to relive this page of the past. The dim lights, the sound of water infiltrating through the rocks, the smell of wet earth, as you descend towards the bottom you forget that above you, outside the mine, the sun is shining.

It is a world apart.

The Erdemolo Mine in Mòcheni Valley | Gruab Va Hardimbl Mine

The submerged mine

The most intense emotion is reserved for those who descend to about twenty meters of depth. Beyond this limit, the path is no longer accessible. After a landslide that occurred in the nineteenth century, a consistent part of the mine remained submerged by water.

No one knows precisely how deep the remains of the ancient mine continue to develop beneath the surface of the water, but walking on a walkway you can glimpse the posts that go down further and further, motionless in the cave for centuries.

Water has stopped time.

The Erdemolo Mine in Mòcheni Valley | Gruab Va Hardimbl Mine

To see the stars again

After this unexpected surprise, I exit into the sunlight. Welcoming me are the green meadows of the Mòcheni Valley and a delicate waterfall that plunges among the rocks, reachable via a staircase.

Outside the mine, there is a small wooden house that comes to life, especially in summer, to host special events related to the visit of the mine: concerts, meetings, workshops.

If you look out from there, you see in the valley the monument by Paolo Vivian Memory of the miner. A colossal bricklayer made of curved iron tubes and wooden boards that testify to the physical and mental strength of these men who worked in the bowels of the Earth.

The Erdemolo Mine in Mòcheni Valley | Gruab Va Hardimbl Mine

In Palù del Fersina, to find out more

Before leaving the world of mines behind you, you must make a stop in Palù del Fersina. Here, a few steps from the Bersntoler Kulturinstitut, there is Museo mineralogico S Pergmandlhaus.

 

Here you can observe the minerals and work tools used by the miners, discover the mining history of the Fersina Valley, its legends, and try a new immersive experience with VR headsets, to discover the Valley from a bird's-eye view.

A vertical journey from the bowels of the mountain to the sky.

The Mòcheni Valley 

Between myth and reality
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Published on 19/06/2026